The John Lobb brand is a legendary manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a center of footwear production in the 17th century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory continues to uphold the craft techniques developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife touching the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only slightly more than half of the leather is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes smaller accessories.
The range combines heritage designs with contemporary tweaks. The City II Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen double monks gained elongated straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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